Collar Setting Technique
This is an excellent collar setting originally technique posted on the fashion incubator forum by Carol Kimball. If you decide to reproduce it (as I have done here) please keep the copyright attribution.
Post from: Fashion Incubator Forum
Author: Carol Kimball
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006
Post subject: "Industrial" Collar Application
This is an industrial technique for setting a collarand band on a shirt or blouse modified for home use. I developed it as a demo for our Colorado PACC chapter in 1999 from several sources, the most important of which was Margaret Islander.
Both sides of the collar and band should be interfaced. If two weights of interfacing are used, the heavier should be on the outside collar band and on the top side of the finished collar .
Cut interfacing without seam allowances, fuse exactly on grain to yardage, and then cut out with 1/4" seam allowances. Approximate is all right as you'll use the edge of the interfacing as your stitch guide.
Set means press or meld the stitching as just sewn.
¼” seam allowances are given here for the neck edge pieces, collar and band, and you should trim your pattern to those specifications.
- The body of the shirt should be together, and the interfaced CF band finished (a).
- Sew the collar pieces together, set, trim corners, turn, press, topstitch if desired (not shown).
- Sew the right side of the more lightly interfaced collar band to the wrong side of the shirt at ¼”, inserting label(s) if desired (b).
- Set the seam as sewn and press all layers up (c). This is the inside of the shirt.
- Lay the more heavily interfaced collar band right side up and lay the collar on it, more heavily interfaced side of the collar up. Sew collar to band at ¼” in short sections, aligning as you go. You will align notches rather than use pins, but they are a standard way to show where the line of stitching will go (d).
- Lay the shirt wrong side up. Adjust so collar band is fairly flat. Lay the more heavily interfaced collar/band on top with collar sandwiched between, matching bands (e).
- Roll the body of shirt out of the way and straighten collar band seam allowance flat (f).
- Feel carefully with fingernail so you can sew right at the edge of the rolled shirt (g-1).
- Begin about 1” from the center front on the bottom edge of the collar band and sew up and around, past where collar joins shirt (g-2).
- Gently pull into finished position and check. Fix if needed. When correct, trim corners, turn, and give a good press.
- Do the other side, then finish stitching between.
- Fold under raw edge of collar band against its interfacing and topstitch collar band, beginning a couple inches in under join with collar .
The topstitching hasn't been done yet, but you can see what a clean, non-bulky finish this process gives. The same procedure is used for a cuff.
©1999, 2006 Carol Kimball - may be copied as long as this attribution is kept.