Sewing Pants

I created the accompanying Pants Fitting Worksheet (pdf file) from the information in the Singer Sewing Pants That Fit book but it can be used with any pants fitting method. I used it for myself and when sewing pants for others to record measurements, ease allowed and pattern adjustments.

Extremely Brief Summary of the Singer Book's Method

After making pattern adjustments, I blend pattern lines and modify pocket line, pockets, pocket stays to conform to pattern changes.

Unless the fabric is a very firm weave that will not fray, I to overlock to finish all edges before sewing the pants.

I use Singer's suggested seam allowances to allow for fitting room and find that they work well.

  1. Side seams and inseams: 1"
  2. Hem: 2"
  3. Front fly facing: 1 "
  4. Front and back crotch seams: 3/8 in. The crotch must fit closely, in order that the remaining adjustments are accurate.
    Actually, I always increase the SA to 5/8" above the crotch area at the back (or even 1" if it is a new client and I think I may need the room.)
  5. Waistline top: 1" (More if a new client or if I suspect may need additional front or back crotch length)
  6. Slant pocket opening: 3/8"
  7. Pockets and pocket facings: 1" at side seam, 5/8" elsewhere

The extra seam allowance is removed by serging it off after the pants have been fitted.

For first fitting:

For slant pocket, under lap pocket piece or pocket stay and machine baste. If the side seams are taken in significantly, the pocket opening can be re-cut. Machine-baste remaining seams; lightly press back front crotch extensions.

Fit using " – 1" elastic over waist at top of pant.